Posted on | May 24, 2014 | No Comments
For the 10+ years I’ve lived in Lima, Friday nights in Miraflores have been one of my favorite things.
The weekends in Parque Kennedy provide so many different things for residents and tourists alike. Art shows and sales, handicrafts for sale and people singing and dancing in the street! What could be more lovely?
One of the loveliest traditions of all has been the weekend dancing at the little mini-amphitheater. Sometimes there is recorded music, sometimes there are musicians providing live tunes – either way, there are always plenty of older couples there to dance to the romantic songs of their youth.
Posted on | May 21, 2014 | No Comments
If you haven’t yet heard “Happy” – the hugely popular tune from the movie Despicable Me 2 by Pharrell Williams – well, what cave have you been living in??
This song has been EVERYWHERE!
It’s even got it’s own 24 hour video channel, playing the song round the clock as people walk, ride and drive through the streets, grocery stores, gas stations and even bowling alleys of Los Angeles. It’s kind of addicting!
Well, Pharrell had encouraged people to make their own versions of the video in their own timezones for the International Day of Happiness back in March, and it seems like some folks here in Lima got in on the fun.
Keep your eyes open for a truly rare sight – a Peruvian outside with no shoes on! (She’s dancing “marinera” style)
I think they did a great job!
Posted on | February 24, 2014 | 2 Comments
Racism in Peru.
Depending on who you talk to, you may be told it barely exists, or that it’s one of the biggest problems the country faces.
I tend to agree with the 2nd school of thought there.
Racism is a bigger problem than hunger? Terrorism? Drug trafficking?
Yes – because the inherent racism in the Peruvian system is part of what defines the way that all those issues are dealt with.
So when I ran across this video on YouTube, it definitely piqued my interest.
Choleando is a documentary on racism in Peru, from Roberto de la Puente. In it, he shows examples of the type of casual racism that is inherent in society here – from TV shows like “La Paisana Jacinta” to off-the-cuff derogatory statements from politicians.. even the President of the country.
Which makes you wonder – How can the indigenous peoples of Peru get a fair shake from the government when so many of the national leaders believe those people have less value?
I was lucky enough to get to speak with Roberto about the movie and his ideas about racism in Peru:
MLiP: Hi Roberto, thanks for taking the time to answer a few questions for me. I was wondering, was there a specific event that got you angry enough that you felt the need for this movie? Or was it more a build up of events over time?
Roberto: I sensed racism all my life. I saw it at school, on the street, on the relationship between family members. The way they look, the way to treat the “other ” people. It was something I did not understand, but I felt it was ” bad “. Years later I began to understand the true dimension of the problem. Perhaps that was one reason why I studied anthropology in college.
MLiP: Do you feel that people in Peru are opening their eyes more to the types of casual racism that happen here?
Roberto: In Peru there is a clear recognition of the existence of racism. Everyone knows that there is racism, and almost everyone can identify their more “subtle ” manifestations . In surveys nearly 80 % recognize that there is racism in Peru . What is new is that in recent years many people protest against this racism. And the protests are public, loudly, in the media.
MLiP: What is your opinion on the recent events during the Peru/Brazil match for the Copa Libertadores?
Roberto: Unfortunate events like that happen all the time. The “animalization” of Afro-Peruvians is something you see everywhere, even in television shows. What is different today is that it is reported. Before it was just “normal”. Nowadays, (there) are still very few Afro-Peruvians with important positions in politics, economics or religion. It’s something that should change soon.
MLiP: Do you feel that racial relations in Peru are getting better or worse? Are you hopeful for the future?
Roberto: I think things are changing in my country. More and more Peruvians speak of the problem of racism.Increasingly, authorities and politicians recognize the need to fight discrimination. Racist acts are denounced and rejected publicly on social networks and media. Now the law explicitly condemns racial discrimination: you can go to jail if you discriminate someone else. The most important thing is that people are tired of racism. And now they want to understand racism, its causes and manifestations.
I am quite optimistic.But I think to end racism requires a profound change in my country. Improving public education, respect indigenous peoples, to ensure that access to the labor market is the same for everyone regardless of the phenotype, etc. We are on the right track. But much work still lacking.
I’ve had conversations with Peruvians – people who were well-educated and have jobs of stature – who voiced what to me were absolutely outrageous opinions. The school director who told me black people were lazy workers, it was simple genetics. Or the English student of mine who warned me against letting our housekeeper sit at the table and eat with my children because she would start getting “uppity”. I felt the same sense of incredulity and anger when I watched this movie.If you’ve not seen the movie, I’ve linked it here. It’s in Spanish, but Roberto has made it available with English subtitles. Whether you’ve been in Peru for a long time or have only just arrived, I believe you’ll find it an interesting look at the culture of the country, and you may learn something.
Posted on | February 17, 2014 | 1 Comment
I ran across this video on Youtube, and had to share it. It’s an interesting look back at mid-century Lima. The gentleman who originally posted the video isn’t sure if it’s late 40s or early 50s.
There also is some question as to whether or not the entire video shows Lima (or even Peru, for that matter – one early section is possibly from Quito, Ecuador).
All the same, it’s interesting to see a few spots that are still recognizable today.
Posted on | February 10, 2014 | 2 Comments
We foreigners in Peru love to talk about how God-awful the traffic is – even though there’s always a few people who try to convince us otherwise.
It’s something I’ve written about here on the blog before – traffic is just cray-cray. I’ve tried to show it with video and pictures, but I don’t think I’ve ever been able to truly express the chaos that is traffic in Lima.
So I was pretty psyched when I found these videos! Not only is it the first thing I’ve ever seen that really shows what the traffic is like, it was lots of fun to watch. I loved seeing him pass through places that were familiar to me – and seeing a few that weren’t!
The show is called Don’t Drive Here from the Discovery Channel. It’s not just a great look at traffic in Lima, it was also an interesting look at life from the point of view of taxi drivers, combi and bus drivers, ambulance drivers and more. It was pretty astounding to hear a bus driver say that he didn’t care if a pregnant woman or elderly person was crossing in front of him, he didn’t hit the brakes; they just need to go faster. It’s something that we ‘gringos’ joke about – pretty freaky to hear the dude just say it right out (I hope he was joking… but I’m not so sure!).
I also FINALLY learned what those guys with clipboards that stand on the side of the road are doing – and why the cobradores (bus conductors) pay them.
You can check it out here – you might want to put on your seat belt!
(Edit: 1 Mar 2015 – When I first posted this, the entire program was available on YouTube. Since it was taken down, I’ve put up this preview video. If you can find the full show, I recommend watching!)
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Posted on | February 8, 2014 | 2 Comments
I’ve written about leche de tigre (tiger’s milk) before – I’ve got a recipe for it right here.
But that’s a recipe from me – a gringa.
For real, authentic Peruvian ceviche, you gotta do it like the Peruvians do.
That’s why I love this video – it may not show you exactly how to make a perfect leche de tigre, but it certainly tells you the secrets behind a good one!
Check it out and enjoy!
Posted on | January 5, 2014 | No Comments
It’s just a new way for me to connect with more readers and to find more blogs that I love.
Even if you don’t blog, it’s a great way to keep track of blogs that you like to follow.
Posted on | January 2, 2014 | 2 Comments
Hope everyone has had a great New Year!
It was a weird one for me – I spent it all alone.
Well – not completely alone, I had my four dogs and plenty of online conversation
My husband worked on the 31st, it’s one of those nights when lots of people are looking for taxis, and there aren’t a lot of taxis out on the streets. I worry about him driving on a night like that, you just know there are a lot more drunk drivers out there – but we’ve got to make that money if we’re gonna get back to the US this year!
I did get up on the roof at midnight to film the fireworks; they were even crazier than Christmas eve! I’m a little jumpy the first couple of minutes, but about 2 minutes in, I get some really good shots.
Oh – and at 5 minutes or so, I get really freaked out and slip up with a little “nsfw” language – sorry! But I tend have an extreme reaction when I see red-hot pieces of metal falling all around me!
On New Years Day, I cooked a big pot of black eyed peas with smoked ribs for seasoning since I don’t have ham hocks. I served it up with cabbage, rice, papas a la huancaina and chuck steak. I’d have liked to have had pork chops, but I didn’t plan my grocery shopping very well this week, lol.
I fixed my husband a big plate full – and all he had to say was “Can I have a fried egg on top?” Oy, Peruvians! 😀 So we had hoppin’ john a la pobre.
All in all, it was really a pretty nice holiday week – and I’m ready to get back to work now.
Here’s wishing all of you all the best in the upcoming year!
Posted on | December 25, 2013 | No Comments
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and All That Jazz!
It’s about 3am Christmas morning – and I’ve GOT to share my video from tonight!
This is our first Christmas living in Los Olivos. Before, we lived in Miraflores, where things are a little more genteel. There were fireworks and rockets, but nothing like the people do here in Los Olivos! It was pure insanity for about 15 minutes. Just check out the video – it starts getting really crazy about 4 or 5 minutes in: (you might want to make sure your volume isn’t up too high!)
What’s really crazy – supposedly, fireworks were outlawed this year!
Apparently, no one thought to enforce it… 😉
Hope your holidays are awesome!
Posted on | December 12, 2013 | 3 Comments
In case you missed it, yesterday I told the story of how the mirrors were stolen from our car – ripped off by a couple of punks in broad daylight, right in front of our house. (If you want more detail, you can read the story here)
But now – there’s more to the story! We actually got our mirrors back!
How that happened is a somewhat complicated tale.
It all started when my husband went to the police to file a theft report (a denuncia in Spanish) immediately after the incident. He talked to the police about what a rip off it was, that they take the parts to the auto repair places and sell them to others as “used”. The Hubs aske “If I should happen to find someone selling my mirrors, what should I do?”
This is where it first starts getting a little… well, Peruvian.
The cop suggests that – for a small “propina” – he would be happy to come and help out. In other words, slip him some cash and he’ll do his job.
This is where basically, Peruvians are stuck between a rock and a hard place. You have – as I see it – three choices in this scenario.
1 – Pay $600 to get new mirrors installed.
2 – Pay around 600 soles (about $200 or so) for
used stolen mirrors.
3 – Pay the cop his bribe – 200 soles (about $70) and get your mirrors back.
If you think like me, none of these options seems particularly fair to the victim of the crime, but at least with the last one, you can get a small modicum of justice if you can bust the dude trying to sell you stolen merchandise. So the Hubs paid the cop his bribe, and went off looking for his mirrors.
He went to Av. Canada, Block 4, where there are some shady auto repair places, and talked to a guy about getting the mirrors installed. The guy says “I can get you used mirrors, but it won’t be until later today. My husband goes back later in the day, and sure enough, the guy has the mirrors.
The hubs says they very obviously matched up to the marks left behind on the car, and there was no doubt that they were our mirrors.
He tells the guy – look, I’m busy this evening and don’t have time for installation, can I come back tomorrow? An appointment is made, an electrician will be there to reconnect them (they’re power mirrors).
The Hubs then calls the cop and tells him what’s going down. The cop says – OK, I’ll be close by at that time, give me a call when they are almost done with the installation.
So that’s what happens – My husband goes back for his appointment, they start the installation, attach the mirrors – and while the electrician is hooking up the wiring, my husband sends message to the cop.
Seconds later, here come two cops – (our cop brought his buddy) and they are not playing games. They went in full bad ass mode, so much my husband said it made him feel a little nervous even!
“Hey M***rF***r, what are you doing? Trying to sell a man his own mirrors? Do you know who this is?”
Haha – the cops begin telling the mechanic dude that my husband is the Police Coronel’s brother!
They had the mechanic and the electrician up against the wall, frisking them (they let the electrician go, they quickly realized he had nothing to do with the scam). There were threats of closing down the business, confiscating all his merchandise, taking him to jail.
The mechanic actually began crying – “I’m so sorry, I didn’t mean to hurt anyone, I’ve got children, please don’t put me in jail”.
And this is where it gets even MORE ULTRA-PERU.
The cops let the mechanic call some friends who came and gave him money and HE PAID ANOTHER BRIBE to the cops – my husband isn’t sure, but believes it was 2000 soles (around $700) to not take him to jail!
And the cops pretend that they’re doing everyone a big favor… although this is exactly the reason this crap continues to happen unabated.
They did threaten the mechanic – he refused to give up the names of the punks who stole the mirror, because he was afraid of what they might do to him if he ratted – but the police told him that if anyone came by and bothered our car again, he would be held responsible for it and they would make sure he was closed down.
My husband said that they were really hard on the mechanic (as well they should be), grabbing him by the scruff of his shirt and shaking him, and screaming in his face, making a very big scene that everyone would notice.
So… in a screwy Peruvian way, justice has somewhat been served. The cops made more cash out of the deal – in 1 day – than they normally make in a week or two (remember, it’s split between two cops). So nice little Christmas bonus for them.
We got our mirrors back, minus the 200 soles to the cop and the 2 days of lost work for my husband dealing with it.
The crooked mechanic got his sh*t served to him, and lost not only the money he bribed the cops with, but the money he paid to the original thieves and the electrician who did the installing. Hopefully, it will teach him a lesson.
The guys that ripped off our mirrors? They don’t care, they got their money. But with a little luck, maybe the mechanic is scared enough that he won’t be buying anymore “used” parts.
And in Peru, life goes on.
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